Weisbrod/DKNY/Armandi Basi


Denis


Star/Matthew Williamson/Erdem


Star/Sinha-Stanic/Dries Van Noten


Att Concorde/Dries Van Noten/Doo.Ri


Silanco/House of Holland/Luella


Weisbrod/Alessandro Dell'Acqua/Erdem


Pontoglio/Stella McCartney/Alexander McQueen


Kimura Senko/Stella McCartney/Hussein Chalayan


Tyber/Jonathan Saunders/Armand Basi


Key fabric: Catwalk Analysis

15th March 2008

Sumptuous fabrics continue on the catwalks this autumn/winter season. The WGSN materials team highlights the key fabrics as first outlined in the seasonal swatch reports.

Cloqué
One of the most important fabric choices for the season, cloqué was in abundance in geometric patterning as well as organic filigree patterns. Found in matt and shine lurex it takes on a sophisticated edge, offering lightweight volume and compact surfaces.

Quilting
Continuing the growing trend for lightweight volume, quilting made a big impact on the catwalks in woven and knitted forms, as well as with laser- welded seams on sumptuous synthetics. This is a trend that will continue for the next few seasons, as lightweight volume becomes an important fabric direction.

Digital floral
Though winter is not a key season for print it still offered up directional prints, with digital florals a move on from the pretty florals of spring/summer. Playing with the capabilities of digital printing technology, flowers are pixelated and digitised. This is a trend that will come into its own in spring/summer 2009.

Streaked
Another print direction playing with digital technology is the streaked and smudged trend. Playing with winter colours and offering up an almost happy accident of design, the print gives an almost textural quality to a flat medium, complementing the textural fabric trend of the season.

Marbling
Abstract imagery in printed textiles is a growing trend surfacing for this autumn/winter. It will also be big for this spring/summer as a result of print companies designing and offering fabrics working in a reactive way to trends.
The marbling story plays with mottled overlapped colour and almost oil- slick patterning, as well as taking inspiration from unusual references in nature, such as the texture of stone or wood.

Checks
Traditional checks are updated - both in scale and colour play - and are very important for the season found in unexpected fabric choices, such as lightweight chiffons and brushed mohair, as well as printed and woven.
Updated lumberjack checks are the most modern way to wear the trend.

Watermark
Watermark silk taffeta epitomises a season embracing fabric richness. Found in heat-bonded prints and updated in micro and macro scales on polyester and silk grounds, this is the way to have fun with decadence.

Velvet
Undoubtedly a hard fabric to wear, velvet is one that is important for the season as an essential plain. Synthetic velours offer up sumptuous drape and easy care, meaning this will be a luxurious fabric for every day.

Matt and shine texture
Embracing the growing trend for weightless volume, matt and shine-textured fabrics with organic patterning make a real statement on the catwalks. Lurex shine is paired with brushed and felted wools for a dull luxe shine.

Fur
Fake or real fur is in abundance on the catwalk. Woven and knitted fabrics emulate animal pelts in astrakhan-like qualities and mink, offering an alternative to real fur.

WGSN comment
Overall fabrics have taken on a textural sophistication and sumptuousness. Synthetics are seen as beautiful as well as offering up easy care.
Fabrics are key and central to the design and will continue to be so through drape and pattern for the coming seasons, as fashion takes on a more sculptural dimension.